How to Train Your Doodle

How to train a Goldendoodle or Bernedoodle: getting started

A lot of new doodle owners stress about following specific “breed rules,” but after training dogs for over 20 years, I can tell you: success depends far more on your dog’s unique personality than on whether it’s a Goldendoodle or a Bernedoodle.

Yes, genetics matter for energy and temperament, but daily training starts with understanding your particular dog and building your relationship together.

Let’s talk through the basics of getting started.

First priorities: structure, boundaries, and socialization

The most important thing you can do with a new puppy—whether Goldendoodle, Bernedoodle, or something else—is immediately set up structure and clear boundaries. That means:

• Get your puppy comfortable with a leash and collar early—even if they naturally follow you for now
• Start introducing do’s and don’ts around the house right away
• Be your puppy’s favorite person by getting hands-on: touch, groom, and expose them gently to noises, surfaces, and household activities

Socialization, at this age, isn’t about meeting other dogs or people. It’s about making YOU their safe place and letting the puppy explore the world, not forcing them, but offering lots of positive new experiences.

When to begin training

Training starts the second your puppy comes home—and it’s an ongoing, daily process. Think about how parenting never really “stops”—it’s the same with your dog.

In those first few weeks:

• Focus on bonding and learning who your dog is
• Get them on a leash regularly, not just free-roaming
• Establish clear potty spots and feeding spots—show them where things happen
• Stay observant: notice how your new puppy reacts to noises, new people, or changes around them

Potty training made practical

Here’s your cheat sheet: if you control input, you can control output.

• Set structured feeding times; no random snacking or grazing
• Put your dog on a potty schedule, especially first thing in the morning and after eating
• Go outside with them, repeat simple phrases, (“Go potty!”, “Go piddle!”) and reward them in the first two seconds after they do it. Don’t wait until you’re back inside.

If your puppy doesn’t go after a few minutes outside, you have some options:

• Keep them on a leash with you and try again in 5–8 minutes
• Put them in their crate
• Tether them briefly in an easy-to-clean area
• Don’t let them roam — the key is not to give them a chance to make a mess inside

And be patient—not every puppy “gets” potty training at the same pace. Stay vigilant for at least 12–16 weeks. If you miss their window, just try again—no yelling, no frustration-driven punishments. The real mistake is expecting too much too soon.

Why consistency is your superpower

Dogs, just like people, look for patterns. If you’re consistent, your dog learns what works and what doesn’t.

• Try to keep routines for feeding, playing, and potty breaks
• Track when your dog urinates and defecates at different times of day. It’s simple: take quick notes on a chart, or mentally log what works
• Respond the same way each time—don’t bend the rules when you’re tired

Regular structure gives your dog the clarity they need.

How much training & stimulation does your doodle need?

Don’t get overwhelmed thinking you need hours of formal “training.” Most meaningful training happens in short bursts throughout the day:

• Ask your dog to sit before feeding or going outside
• Practice recall (“Come!”) a handful of times when they least expect it
• Play fetch, teach a gentle drop or “leave it”—even small tasks build good habits

It’s really about using daily moments to reinforce behaviors. Of the eight hours you’re with your dog, you might get 30–40 minutes of true engagement spread out—that’s enough if you’re consistent and positive.

Crate training: why it matters

A crate isn’t doggy jail—it’s a sanctuary. Especially for breeds with high energy or anxious personalities, that calm “den” space helps everyone:

• Use positive reinforcement: toss a treat or a Kong toy in the crate, feed a few meals in there
• The crate gives your dog a safe place to relax—and you a chance to step away for a breather
• If your dog soils the crate, check the size (it should be just big enough to stand and turn around, not large enough to “go” in one corner and sleep in another)

Never use the crate as an angry punishment. Instead, treat it as time for both of you to reset.

Basic obedience: commands every doodle needs

Start with the essentials:

1. Loose leash walking — not pulling
2. Reliable recall (“Come!”) — practice it a dozen quick times each day, rewarding with praise or treats
3. Sit — simple, easy to incorporate constantly
4. Place — train your dog to stay on a mat or raised bed as a “home base”

Work commands in during daily life, not just special “training time.” The more natural it feels, the more successful you’ll be.

Distractions and listening in public

• Start your obedience foundation at home—no distractions
• Gradually add mild distractions: practice recalls in the yard, then with family around, then with slight noise or toys in reach
• Don’t expect perfect behavior in public unless you’ve practiced with little distractions, then bigger ones, then full-on real-world chaos (doorbells, squirrels, other dogs)

Progress, not perfection—build up slowly, and celebrate small wins.

Socialization for real life

Socialization isn’t about letting every stranger or dog greet your puppy. It’s about calmly exposing them to new situations without letting them get overexcited.

• On first public trips, resist the urge to let everyone pet your puppy
• Let them watch the world. When they’re calm and under control, some greetings are fine—but not every time
• Set expectations: don’t let your dog practice bad habits (like pulling toward every passerby)

Troubleshooting common headaches

Jumping, leash pulling, and “selective hearing” are all common. Here’s how I approach these:

• Use markers: say “No” calmly, physically redirect or ignore problem behavior—don’t yell or get caught in the excitement yourself
• For jumping: avoid eye contact and touch for 5 seconds right after they leap up—attention is its own reward for dogs!
• For leash pulling: stop or change direction; only move ahead when the leash is slack
• For ignoring commands: remind yourself, it’s about your presentation—if you’re repeating yourself with no result, pause and try a different way to motivate your dog
• Above all, match your approach to your dog’s unique personality

Are there big differences between Goldendoodles and Bernedoodles?

Honestly, training either breed is more about personality than breed specifics. Sure, Bernedoodles may, on average, mature a little slower or be a bit more aloof, while Goldendoodles can be higher energy. But every dog is unique.

• Some Bernedoodles can be timid if training is rushed; some need more gentle introduction to new things
• Goldendoodles may need more stimulation to avoid boredom
• But the principles stay the same—read your dog’s body language and adjust from there

When to seek professional help

If you’re frustrated or progress has stalled, there’s no shame in reaching out. The best trainers:

• Have real experience and references
• Are clear about their methods (look for transparency and care, not extreme tactics)
• Offer solutions that align with your goals as a family, not just quick fixes

Even a simple phone consult can save you from weeks of struggle.

What does a well-trained doodle look like?

The happiest, most reliable family dogs aren’t robots—they’re relaxed, involved in your life, and patient. They:

• Join you on errands, at soccer games, or just on the couch
• Listen quickly and reliably to commands at home and in public
• Adjust to new environments with confidence

And—the best part—they make you smile every time you walk in the door.

In closing

When you’re stuck or frustrated, remember: training is about reading and connecting with your dog, not following breed stereotypes. If your approach isn’t working, pause and try a new method—and don’t hesitate to ask for help.

Here’s a little bit about the author

Over 20 years ago, Steve began Kasten’s while working in underground dog fencing. Customers constantly noticed his dog Butterscotch’s great manners—and asked if he could help their dogs, too. Steve’s approach focuses on building the right relationship, not rigid rules by breed.